upcycled design practice research
A research component of the upcycled gear fashion show included an examination of the upcycling design process. The research design was interdisciplinary in nature and used mixed methods. This included a pre- and post-survey with all designers involved, photographic and video documentation of the upcycled design process submitted by all designers and an analysis of all textile waste (scraps) from the designer’s upcycled garments. Scrap analysis included a material culture examination along with a scientific quantitative approach. Each designers was required to return all textile waste scraps and unused branded materials to us for analysis.
We were interested to know what the scraps could tell us about the upcycling design process. What are the characteristics of the scraps? Can the scraps be categorized? How much was leftover from each designer? Was waste generation a consideration in their upcycling process? Are there any correlations between amount and type of scraps with the type of upcycling approach (e.g. patchwork, deconstruction/reconstruction, knitting, etc…)?
Method
Data collection included surveys, reflections, field notes, photo and video documentation, material characterization and observation.
All materials chosen by the designer’s for their upcycled outfit(s) was documented. This included an itemized list along with garment details (e.g., fibre composition), photographs and weighing.
Designers participating in two surveys: one before they began designing and a follow-up once they completed their outfit for the upcycled gear fashion show. Survey questions included a combination of Likert, multiple choice and written responses. In addition to the surveys, designers were instructed to document their design process through notes, photos and videos and keep all textile waste generated through their design process.
Once we collected all the materials from the designers, we applied an objective scientific analysis to capture all possible variables and data points in an attempt to characterize the reclaimed textile waste.
We physically examined, photographed, measured and weighted all the textile scraps submitted by each individual designer.
We then sorted the scraps into categories (examples pictured below): garments with voids; medium-sized scraps >30cm/12” square but less than the full sized garment; small size scraps <30cm/12” square; seams; trims; elastics; thread; serger offcuts.
Categorized scraps were then weighed two ways: 1) by designer and 2) as a category total.
Quantitative textile waste data was cross-referenced against qualitative survey results to contextualize our objective analysis of the textile scraps. Survey results were not read or analyzed until after the textile waste analysis was complete. This was to ensure an objective analysis where designer intentions, explanations or process was unknown. We recorded our observations and hypothesis about any possible correlations between type and amount of waste and types of upcycling approaches. Our only point of reference relating to the designer’s design process were the final upcycled garments.
Results
This study is in progress but our initial results indicate there are defined upcycling approaches, identifiable best practices, and a correlation between certain approaches and type/volume of textile waste. It should be noted however that due to the time constraints of the show, designers did alter certain design behaivours. These discrepancies or deviances from typical design practice was noted and is taken into account as we continue to analyze our data.
We have observed that certain upcycling approaches yielded less waste (i.e., scraps).
We have identified types of upcycling design methods which includes benefits, best practices and challenges.
